Mors et statera - Month #1

Mors et statera

A study into new and (very) unfamiliar depths

INTRODUCTION

As someone who has done many many years of historical studies, when I returned to my local Live Action Roleplay community (LARP), I decided to try something new. I have a history for sticking to the same silhouette for all of my costumes, and after 15 years of the same style, I am throwing caution to the wind and trying to design and make my own interpretation of historically accurate Landsknecht style clothing.


With this, I will be attempting to try historically accurate styles and techniques, within the twelve months or so I have as a deadline to create this outfit in its entirety.


Also, because I am a nerd who enjoys bad memes. I will be including on it each post. Cause I can.




PART ONE - MILITARY IMPORTANCE IN HISTORY

The Landsknechte (singular: Landsknecht, pronounced [ˈlantsknɛçt]), also rendered as Landsknechts or Lansquenets, were German mercenaries used in pike and shot formations during the early modern period. Consisting predominantly of pikemen and supporting foot soldiers, their front line was formed by Doppelsöldner ("double-pay men") commonly known for their use of Zweihänder and arquebus weaponry, they formed the bulk of the Holy Roman Empire's Imperial Army from the late 15th century to the early 17th century, fighting in the Habsburg-Valois wars, the Habsburg-Ottoman wars, and the European wars of religion.




PART TWO - CLOTHING DESIGN IN HISTORICAL LANDSKNECHT

Historically, landsknecht were notoriously brightly coloured, which were often borderline flamboyant and gaudy. The patterns used by the soldiers of the Landsknecht were part of the individual personas, denoting ranks, mercenary and martial status independently from other institutions of militaristic warfare.


The common designs of traditional landsknecht attire were made to be figure-hugging to a point to accommodate the armour work at the time, which was segmented, to allow ease of movement. This also provided a means of hiding the figure of an individual, as the ‘hourglass’ silhouette was incredibly fashionable for the 15th and 16th centuries.

With this, the use of the hilariously over sized were constructed to make the waist area look even smaller. (To quote a dear friend of mine “Modern menswear is a crime - (Sheriff, 2020). Commonly, clothing of their landsknecht style were stylistically pleated, slashed, strip woven and mi parti (‘in two parts’ - garments consisting of two contrasting fabrics, popularised from the 11th to the late 16th centuries)


PART THREE - FASHION OF THE TIMES

Landsknecht wear usually consisted of hosen, jerkins/vests, doublets, square toed leather shoes, comically sized and shaped codpieces, and a large over coat - or waffenrock, making these figures of martial prowess.

The iconic Landsknecht clothing is instantly recognizable by its multicolor style and freakish cuts—an intentional rebellion against the conservative fashion of the time. These garments, with their exaggerated puffed sleeves, slashes through which brightly colored undergarments could be glimpsed, and the wide array of vivid hues, were more than mere outfits; they were statements of individuality in an era rigid with sumptuary laws. The bravado of Landsknechts was woven into each fabric's cut, color, and contour, making each warrior's attire as unique as his own battle scars.


Reflective of the wearers' rugged and bold spirit, each piece of Landsknecht costume was meticulously tailored to the individual's measurements, echoing the distinctiveness seen in medieval paintings and engravings. Adapted from the visual cues of historical artworks, these tailor-made ensembles provided not only a fierce look but also unrivaled comfort during combat. Each Landsknecht's kit was thus a bespoke work of art, reflecting both personal taste and the practices of a seasoned German mercenary soldier.

  • Eye-catching splashes of color and pattern

  • Strategic slashes revealing contrasting fabric

  • Bespoke tailoring for a personalized fit

Employing the images of the past, modern recreations remain true to form, offering history enthusiasts and reenactors the opportunity to don attire indistinguishable from that of the Landsknecht's wardrobe. Whether seeking historical accuracy or participatory immersion, the Landsknecht clothing we craft today continues to pay homage to those German mercenary soldiers who made fashion a vibrant part of their storied legacy. (Stageman, 2024)


PART FOUR - PRETTY PRIVILEGE

As the society of the time was bound tightly by the sumptuary laws of the Holy Roman Emperor Maximilian I, landsknecht soldiers were often granted the ability to use rare and precious colours and fabrics for their clothing and armour, making way for the landsknecht to have their flamboyance to be cemented into the annals of cultural phenomena of the European Renaissance.


This also meant that with the allowances to use more expensive fabrics, the landsknecht’s clothing denoted certain points of social statistical significance, based on the type of fabric used, as the following table from Renaissance Wardrobe (Stageman, 2024) will explain; 


Garment

Typical Cost

Material

Social Significance

Puffed Sleeves Doublet

Several months' wages

Wool and Silk

Status and experience level

Slashed Breeches

One month's wages

Wool and Linen

Opulence and bravado

Feathered Beret

Two weeks' wages

Felt or Velvet

Military accomplishments

Decorated Codpiece

One week's wages

Leather

Virility and confidence


   In conclusion, I am incredibly excited to begin this creative journey, and there will be more posts to follow detailing the patterning processes and sewing mishaps and chaos that will ensue

REFERENCES

Beham, S. (1525). Landsknechte (Lansquenets). [Woodcut] https://www.britishmuseum.org/collection/object/P_E-9-142.

Burgschnieder (2025). Landsknecht Collection. [Photography] https://burgschneider.com/en-au/collections/landsknecht/products/landsknecht-vest-imperialis-red-black.

Hopfer, D. (1505). Landsknecht and His Wife. [Etching] https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Landsknecht#/media/File:Landsknecht_with_his_Wife.jpg.

Hopfer, D. (2005). Landsknecht with Zweihander. [Etching] https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Landsknecht#/media/File:Landsknecht_1.JPGhttps://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Landsknecht#/media/File:Landsknecht_1.JPG.

Hopfer, D. and Schön, E. (1520). Five German Soldiers. [Etching] https://www.metmuseum.org/art/collection/search/373153.

Mandal, D. (2019). Landsknecht: the ‘Garishly’ Effective Footsoldier of 16th Century. [online] Realm of History. Available at: https://www.realmofhistory.com/2019/12/09/landsknecht-history-pikeman-facts/ [Accessed 21 Mar. 2025].

Rosenberg, A. and Heyck, E. (1905). Geschichte Des Kostüms. Wikimedia.org, Weyhe.

Schöen, E. (1532). Landsknecht Leader. [Woodcut] http://www.zeno.org/Kunstwerke/B/Schoen,+Erhard:+Landsknechtf%C3%BChrer+[1].

Sheriff, M. (2020). Recreating the Urs Graf Mercenary - Part 1: Planning and the Wams/doublet. [online] Blogspot.com. Available at: https://themidnightsheriff.blogspot.com/2020/11/recreating-urs-graf-mercenary-part-1.html [Accessed 21 Mar. 2025].

Stageman, G. (2024). Landsknecht Clothing, Armor and Weapons. [online] Renaissance Wardrobe. Available at: https://renaissancewardrobe.com/blogs/renaissance-and-medieval-life/landsknecht-clothing-armor-and-weapons [Accessed 21 Mar. 2025].

Swart, E. (2006). From ‘Landsknecht’ to ‘Soldier’: the Low German Foot Soldiers of the Low Countries in the Second Half of the Sixteenth Century. International Review of Social History, 51(1), pp.75–92. doi:https://doi.org/10.1017/s0020859005002336.


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